Mayali Pass (Masartal)

October 1st-6th, 2011

Synopsis

Last days of college were coming; nobody knows what will come next, where we will be in upcoming years. We secretaries of HEC were never allowed to go on a trek together. So in the last year, when we no longer the secretaries, planned one last trek together which could be more adventurous than we all had done earlier. Our most adventurous trekker, Sanjay Jangid, planned this trek but couldn’t go due to health issues. So finally we five persons went on this trek. It would be our longest trek at highest elevation among what we had done earlier.

Mayali Pass Trek is a high altitude trek famous for enjoying the glimpse of actual Himalayan life in Gangi & Reeh, dense Himalayan forest, Beautiful meadows, Himalayan peaks like Jogin Group, Meru, Thalay Sagar, a high altitude pass (Mayali 5500m), three high altitude lakes Masartal, Painya Tal & Vasukital and a famous pilgrim center Kedarnath. All these features are rare in one single trek.

• Getting There

• Short-Itinerary

• Important Tips

• Team-mates

• Trek Itineray

• Gallery

Access:
Different locations from where Mayali pass trek can be started are Ghuttu, Kedarnath, Gangotri (via Auden’s col) and Malla village (near Uttarkashi via Sahasratal). Among these Ghuttu is most famous.
Ghuttu is 160 km from Rishikesh. Since direct buses are not available; board a bus to Ghansoli (via Chamba and Tehri) from Rishikesh (Pahadi bus stand) and change thereafter.

Note: Ghuttu village is not avialable in Google maps, thus a nearby village, Niswalibhat Gaon, is shown with same coordinates.

Trekking map

Return Journey

Short Itinerary:

Day-1: Rishikesh to Ghuttu (1524m) via Ghansali (130+30=160 km)

Board a Bus from Rishikesh pahadi bus stand to Ghansali and thereafter for Ghuttu. Night say at GMVN Guest house or any other hotel.

Day-2: Ghuttu to Reeh (2132m, 10kms)

Way is not steep and starts from the backside of the bus stand. Road construction is in process. At Reeh stay at GMVN dormitory for the night. Reeh is a small village surrounded by rhododendron & pine forest.

Day-3: Reeh to Kalyani via Gangi (2683m, 10+5=15km)

First 5kms is a steep climb after crossing a Stream and then gradual ascent and decent. There are few shepherd huts on the way. Gangi is the last village on this way. After Gangi its 5 km to Kalyani through dense forest and a steep climb at the end. Kalyani has small but beautiful camping ground along with few Shephard huts.

Day-4: Kalyani to Kharsoli (2896m, 12km)

It is a long never ending walk. Kharsoli provides an excellent camping ground at its meadows.It is located at the confluence of the Bhilanganga and its tributary. There is a small hut (abandoned) where you can also stay or cook.

Day-5: Kharsoli to Chawki (3680m, 14km)

Start along the bank of BhilanGanga. After covering 1 km enter in a forest cover. More than one land slide zone on the way which is to be crossed carefully. Two kms before chowki cross Bhilan Ganga over a temporary log bridge which is prone to get washed away each year.

Day-6: Chawki to khatling glacier and return to Chawki (Rest Day)

One can skip this day and move further or go to khatling glacier keeping the tent and non-essential things at Chawki and bring a day pack.

Day-7: Chawki to Masartal (3980, 6.5km)

Trek started with following a small stream fed from Masartal on our left. As you look back from the way Khatling glacier can be seen. Camping ground is just 1 ridge prior to the lake. Today’s trek was easy but we had a considerable altitude gain. Patches of snows were there on the camping ground.

Day-8: Masartal to Masar-top to Vasukital via Mayali Pass (5500m, 11km)

At first stop at Masartal a beautiful lake on a high mountain with lot of camping spots. Way to Masar top is on the left side of the lake and it is quite strenuous, gradient is almost 60-65 degrees. This was the most challenging day of the trek. The boulders covered in patches of snow made the trek more demanding. There is no defined path you could find. One has to traverse through a bolder zone to find a suitable place to cross the Mayali glacier. Mt. Thalaysagar, Kedardome, Bhartekuntha and many other peaks can be seen from here. Start getting down to Vasukital and its knee breaking descent over boulders. Just below the top, Paniatal can be seen on the left.

Day-9: Vasukital to Gaurikund (1981m) via Kedarnath (3584m, 7+14=21km)

This is last day of our trek. Start from Vasukital camping ground and reached Vasukital within 15 minutes. Nobody camps near this sacred lake. From Vasukital to Vasuki top is another steep climb of 2 kms. On a clear day, Mandani region can be seen from here. Once you climb the trail to the top, descend down to the Mandakini River. Cross the river to the true left of the valley to reach Kedarnath and proceed to Gaurikund which is another 14 km well laid pilgrim trail. Overnight stay in hotel and board first bus in the morning to Rishikesh.

Day-10: Gaurikund to Rishikesh (211km)

Important Tips:

• Stay facilities are available at Ghuttu, Reeh, Kedarnath, and Gaurikund. In-between camping is the only option.
• Permits: Permits required for camping in forest area can be collected from DFO of Forest Department at Ghuttu.
• This trek is long enough and many trails merge; it is difficult to go solo, so a guide is recommended. Guide can be hired from Ghuttu at nominal price (we hired at Rs1000/day).
• Don’t forget to take Ropes to cross river in case bridge is broken and Kharsoli and Chawki; to safely cross the crevasses in Mayali pass. They also help stay in line in case of storm.
• Take kerosene stove not LPG cylinder as LPG get freeze at high altitude and low temperature. LPG might not work at Masartal (also no wood available).
• Better to carry micro-spiked crampons to walk on snow; although optional (We didn’t carry any).
• Carry Ice-axe, it will help you make path on steep slopes.
• Best Season: for this trek is pre-monsoon (May-June) and post monsoon (September end to middle of October).

Team members:

1.Sahil Makkar (Ex Sec.-Conditioning and training H.E.C.) Facebook Profile

2.Sandeep Kumar (Ex Sec.-Regional Development H.E.C.) Facebook Profile

3.Sumit Mahajan (Ex Gen-Sec. H.E.C.) Facebook Profile

4.Jalaj Khajotia Facebook Profile

5.Devesh Salvi Facebook Profile

6.Sanjay Jangid (Ex Sec.-High Altitude Trekking H.E.C.) Facebook Profile

Trek Itinerary:

Day-1: Rishikesh to Ghuttu (1524m) via Ghansali (130+30=160 km)
We started our trip at 3 am in the morning from Roorkee to Rishikesh. We forgot our small 2 kg LPG cylinder in the bus. We tried to retrieve it but failed. So we moved on without it expecting we would arrange something. We boarded a bus to Ghansali from pahadi bus stand of Rishikesh. And thereafter change the bus to Ghuttu and finally reached at around 2-3 pm. We booked a hotel and went to the small market in the village for buying a stove/cylinder and gathering information regarding the trek. After discussing with a few shopkeepers we finally met an old man, Jaipal Singh Rana. He was a guide, and very popular in the valley. We hired him; he himself arranged a stove and kerosene for the trek.

Day-2: Ghuttu to Reeh (2132m, 10kms)
Next morning we started our trek, for the first 4-5 km there was unmetalled road. We didn’t hire any taxi. It was hot sunny day which was making us dizzy and thirsty; also neither has any good scenic beauty nor such trekking feel. In future (in 5-6months) there might be a road to Reeh. At around 4 pm we reached Reeh village, and stayed in GMVN Dormitory. Rana Ji told us there is a water fall around half a km from there. We went to enjoy. It was icy cold water, Algae had grown at the bottom yet we enjoyed a lot. I swallowed some water and caught throat infection. We came back enjoyed hot tea and went to bed after dinner provided by GMVN.
Rana Ji drank some alcohol with local guys, and went deep sleep. There were some fights among the local people near the dormitory. Nobody else was there except us in the dormitory so we locked it from inside. We were imagining regarding the plans of locals about mugging us. :P by drunken our guide. We tried to wake him up, but he couldn’t. We were restless whole night.

Day-3: Reeh to Kalyani via Gangi (2683m, 10+5=15km)
Next morning I had fever due to throat infection and incomplete sleep. I took medicine and continued on trek. In about half an hour I felt better and caught up pace. First 5kms is a steep climb after crossing a Stream (the same stream where we went yesterday evening for enjoyment) and then traversing through lush green hills with gradual ascent and decent. There are many shepherd huts on the way. Gangi is the last village on this way. Some landslide areas were also encountered as we came close to Gangi. Since we have enough time left, we decided not to stay at Gangi. After Gangi its 5 km to Kalyani through dense forest and a steep climb at the end. Kalyani has small but beautiful camping ground along with few Shephard huts surrounded by dense forest. The last ascend squeezed all the breath from us. I was very much tried that couldn’t do anything else. My teammates set the tent a little away from the huts (so as not to disturb them), and Rana Ji helped us setting fire and preparing dinner. I ate a little, took medicine as I was again feeling feverish and went to bed.

Day-4: Kalyani to Kharsoli (2896m, 12km)
Beauty of morning was garnished by sunrise from right behind the Thalay Sagar peak. Cool weather and sunlight shining on the wet green grass was just enriching/intensifying the beauty. About my health condition, it was like my day starts with combiflam to charge me and ends with one to recover me. For dinner we carried Maggie and upma, I Couldn’t eat much, so getting weaker. Anyhow we moved towards our next campsite. As we crossed the forest there was a big boulder and beneath it we saw another group (from our collage) packing their tents, which crossed us in the night and camped here. I met my darling Ramu, gossip a little and moved further thereafter. It was a long never ending walk traversing along the left side of Bhilanganga River passing though boulders. Finally we crossed a bridge and reached Kharsoli about half a km thereafter. Kharsoli is located at the confluence of the BhilanGanga and its tributary. There is a small hut we set our tent beside it. Rana ji suggested me to sleep inside the hut. He smoked the hut to kill any mosquitoes and then laid grass to keep the ground warm.

Day-5: Kharsoli to Chawki (3680m, 14km)
Early morning we started the trek passing through dense bushes along the bank of BhilanGanga. There are many land slide zones on the way which is to be crossed carefully. Two km before Chawki we crossed Bhilanganga over a temporary log bridge which is prone to get washed away each year. From here steep ascend on a ridge which and ends at the campsite. There is another point from where one can cross over at a snow bridge which is 2kms ahead. Weather was getting worse, it was fog everywhere. It took us another half an hour to reach the camping ground in little showers.
My condition was getting worse, I barely could eat anything. Whatever I was eating I was vomiting out. I was surviving on Glucon-D and water. We decided to take rest for one day at Chawki and others would go and visit Khatling glacier. Night was very cold.

Day-6: Chawki to khatling glacier and return to Chawki (Rest Day)
In the morning ice was formed in the utensils. Weather was clear; Sumit, Jalaj, Sandeep and Rana Ji went to see khatling glacier carrying a day pack containing lunch. I and Devesh stayed at camp. Sun was shining, and we were enjoying its warmth. Hearing Vividh Bharti (Radio, yes! It was catching range!) felt like we were at some picnic. I was feeling better now. After around 2:30 pm again weather became cloudy so we dug into the tents, soon the group returned. We discussed today’s experience at dinner and went asleep.

Day-7: Chawki to Masartal (3980, 6.5km)
In the morning again I had fever, took medicine and started the trek. I didn’t have much strength, so couldn’t maintain the speed. The trek started with following a small stream fed from Masartal on our left. As you look back from the way Khatling glacier can be seen. The lush green meadow on our back was adorable. I don’t know what was giving me strength, but I was moving on. Not even for a second a thought came to my mind what if, what if I fell unconscious or what if I couldn’t complete this trek. Something from inside was dragging me to achieve my goal. There was no descend or straight path, we were just ascending the mountain. Today’s trek was short but we had a considerable altitude gain. Camping ground is just 1 ridge prior to the lake. It started snow before we reached the camp. Sandeep and Sumit went faster to set the camp before snowfall gets worse. Jalaj helped me to reach the campsite. They helped me to sleep into the tent. I didn’t have enough energy to remove my shoes or enter into my sleeping bag. I was vomiting out even water. One rubbed balm over my body to keep me warm. It was snowing outside; everybody was enjoying near the fire but worried about me.

Day-8: Masartal to Masar-top to Vasukital via Mayali Pass (5500m, 11km)
Today’s trek would be the toughest and longest part of the trek, so everyone told me go ahead till they pack the tents. So I ready myself and moved. After 5-6 steps my feet suddenly stopped, I could even take a step further and stood there for a while. I was fighting with my body and finally sat down. My head was feeling heavy and swinging. I took my time and put my all left out energy but after all that efforts I realized that’s it and I’m done & couldn’t go further. All my friends tried their best to encourage me to move but from inside I’d let my weapons down. Another burden in my head was that I didn’t want this trek to be a failure, but I couldn’t help it. It was a tough decision for everyone because we never split the team, either we all advance or all retreat. Due to my health condition, I needed someone to retreat with me. Devesh was too exhausted, so he decided to come with me. We split the luggage, heavier and uncooked food with stove was left behind with us. Rana Ji explained them regarding the next journey; aware them about the crevasses and other safety. Finally, I, Devesh and Rana Ji retreated and Sandeep, Sumit and Jalaj went further carrying dry fruits and other necessary things.
Masartal to Vasukital (Sandeep’s point of view
An hour earlier a Bengali group passed our campsite, we planned to chase them. As we ascended the first ridge’s top, beautiful Masartal Lake was seen. Trail to Masar top is on the left side of the lake and it is quite strenuous, gradient is almost 60-65 degrees. This was the most challenging day of the trek. The boulders covered in snow made the trek more demanding. I was always leading the team till this point of trek, but this ascend made me slow. Sumit was first at the summit to Masartop. It took around 45 min to cover the distance which is even less than half a km. It was quiet tiresome ascent and Jalaj start feeling hungry again. We had little snacks there.
Since we were without a guide and unaware of the route, it was necessity to keep the Bengali group in sight. So we decided to split, leading Sumit to go further followed by Sandeep and Jalaj at last, keeping each other in sight. On the other side of Masartal, there were stunning views of frozen river and we were moving on a mountain adjacent to it. At some places the trail was so narrow that we had to move by holding the boulders.
After an hour we reached the foothill of Mayali Pass and the snow showers started. Sumit was following the group of Bengali trekkers which were disappearing very fast in the snowfall and foggy weather. The person moving ahead was appearing like a shadow due to the harsh weather conditions. The trail was also disappearing fast due to fresh snowfall, so walking as fast as possible was the only call of the moment. As cautioned by Rana Ji, there were 3 crevasses in the slope of the mountain, so any self-opted path by anyone could have ended that person’s life in crevasse. After reaching the Mayali Pass, I saw Sumit at the summit. We were joined by Jalaj in few minutes.
I searched for water bottle in the side pocket of the rucksack; but to my disappointment it was all frozen. We were able to see incredible views of frozen Paniya Tal (4km) and greenish blue Vasuki Tal (8km) in single look.
From here we descended towards Vasukital through small boulders which were very demanding on knees, only advantage being the clear weather. It took nearly 6 hours for the team to reach VasukiTal camp site. It was already dark and all the good sites were occupied by the group ahead. We have to setup our tent on surface with a minor slope. Since all the food items we have sent back with Sahil and Devesh, we were on dry fruits, but porters of other group offered us rice and lentil. It was a tough night as we all were slipping down in our sleeping bags due to slope.
Masartal to Kharsoli (Return)
After half an hour of rest we moved down to Chawki. As we were descending I was feeling better. Every step brought a thought to ascend again but . . . . . . I realized that I had suffered from acute mountain sickness (AMS). In 2 hours we crossed Chawki campsite and by evening we reach Kharsoli.

Day-9: Vasukital to Gaurikund (1981m) via Kedarnath (3584m, 7+14=21km)
(Sandeep’s point of view)
Next day, after walking for half an hour, we reached Vasukital. It was afternoon when we could saw Kedarnath, which was half a kilometer further. At this point we had a look on our shoes which were no longer fit for any trek. Anyways, the finishing point was still 14km ahead at Gaurikund. Jalaj got his foot sore which was hampering his movement. It was 8 at night when we started the trek. We went to a hotel where we were greeted with a tap on the back by owner knowing that we are coming from Mayali Pass trek and not just regular pilgrims.
Kharsoli to Kalyani
In the evening we reached Kalyani. Shepherds from Kalyani had already moved to lower grounds already. We slept in one of their huts (abandoned). Now I was eating a little bit.

Day-10: Gaurikund to Rishikesh (211km)

Kalyani to Ghuttu
At Ghuttu we stayed in hotel for night. We cleared Rana Ji dues and said thanks and goodbye to him for all his help. Next morning board the bus to Rishikesh and finally reached our hostel.
After 11 days I was seeing my face in the mirror, dark face sunburn and grown beard. When I Took off my shirt I was shocked, where I had built muscles now only the skeleton has left. I lost 10 kg. My room was at 3rd floor. I couldn’t come down to mess, so a friend was bringing it for me. After recovering a bit I went home at Diwali, and shocked my mother too with my health. Thank god I didn’t come right after the trek.

Day-2: Ghuttu to Reeh

Day-3: Reeh to Kalyani via Gangi

Day-4: Kalyani to Kharsoli

Day-5: Kharsoli to Chawki

Day-6: Chawki to khatling glacier and return to Chawki (Rest Day)

Day-7: Chawki to Masartal

Day-8: Masartal to Masar-top to Vasukital via Mayali Pass

Day-9: Vasukital to Gaurikund via Kedarnath